Piolets d’Or 2019: la giuria e la big list delle salite alpinistiche più significative ed innovative

Sono 58 le ascensioni del 2018 inserite nella Big list, dalla quale verranno scelte le salite da premiare con il Piolets d’Or, il prestigioso premio di alpinismo che tra il 19 e 22 settembre 2019 andrà in scena durante il Ladek Mountain Festival in Polonia. Fanno parte della giuria: Sandy Allan, Kazu Amano, Valeri Babanov, Jordi Corominas, Fred Degoulet, Ines Papert, Andrej Štremfelj.

È stata resa nota ieri dalla organizzazione dei Piolets d’Or la consueta “biglist”, l’elenco delle salite alpinistiche più significative ed innovative realizzatenel 2018 dalla quale verrà stilata la lista dei vincitori del Piolets d’Or 2019che verrà celebrato durante il Ladek Mountain Festival in Polonia dal 19 al 22settembre 2019.

Il compito di individuare le salite che meglio rispettano la carta dei Pioletsd’Or è stato affidato ad un giuria internazionale composta da 7 alpinisti checertamente non hanno bisogno di presentazione: lo scozzese Sandy Allan, ilgiapponese Kazu Amano, il russo Valeri Babanov, lo spagnolo JordiCorominas, il francese Fred Degoulet, la tedesca Ines Papert e lo slovenoAndrej Štremfelj.

L’elenco comprende 58 salite in tutto il mondo ed è stato compilato daLindsay Griffin (Senior Editor, American Alpine Journal), con l’aiuto diDougald MacDonald (Editor in Chief, American Alpine Journal) e RodolphePopier (Himalayan Database). Secondo gli organizzatori si tratta di “unelenco rappresentativo di salite significative e innovative nella maggior partedelle regioni montane del mondo, salite durante il 2018, in stile alpino esenza l’uso degli spit. Questo non è un elenco di ascensioni nominate per iPiolets d’Or e non dovrebbe essere confuso con esso. I gradi sono quelli citatidai primi salitori e sono ancora da confermare. Da notare che alcunicollegamenti web possono rappresentare un quadro non completo deglieventi, ma sono attualmente i migliori disponibili.”

Durante la premiazione a settembre verrà assegnato all’alpinista polaccoKrzysztof Wielicki il Piolet d’Or Carrière, ma verrano anche celebrate le vitedi alcuni – troppi – alpinisti che purtroppo non ci sono più. Scrivono infatti gliorganizzatori “Dall’autunno del 2017 abbiamo assistito a troppi incidentimortali che coinvolgono alpinisti di alto livello: Hansjörg Auer, David Lama eJess Roskelley sul Howse Peak; Sergey Glazunov sul Latok I; Christian Hubersull’ Ultar Sar; Fumitaka Ichimura sul Chamlang; Ryan Johnson e Marc AndréLeclerc sulla Mendenhall Tower; Kim Chang-ho sotto Gurja Himal; TomaszMackiewicz sul Nanga Parbat; Martin Moran su una montagna innominata di6477 metri. Né dovremmo dimenticare la tragica perdita di HaydenKennedy… Siamo staticoscienti quasi costantemente dei pericoli che possonoderivare dalla nostra passione per l’alpinismo in stile alpino. Questosettembre, quando i Piolets d’Or saranno di nuovo ospitati dal LadekMountain Festival, noi coglieremo l’occasione per celebrare la vita ed isuccessi di alcuni di questi alpinisti eccezionali.”

ASIA
INDIA
Kishtwar Himalaya, Cerro Kishtwar (6,173m)

Genki Narumi – Yusuki Sato – Hiroki Yamamoto (Japan)
Northeast face, Aal Izz Well, 1,500m, VI WI5 M6. One bivouac (September).
– alpinist.com/doc/web18f/newswire-new-route-on-cerro-kishtwar-ne-face

Kinnaur, Baspa Valley, Peak (6,050m)
Hansjorg Auer – Max Berger – Much Mayr – Guido Unterwurzacher (Austria)
First ascent via southeast face, 1,000m on face. Two bivouacs above base camp at 3,200m (October).
– web.hansjoerg-auer.at/first-ascent-of-the-unknown-peak-6050m
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/seimila-salito-in-himalaya-indiano-dal-dream-team-austriaco

Gangotri, Janhukot (6,805m)
Malcolm Bass – Guy Buckingham – Paul Figg (UK)
First ascent via southwest buttress and upper south-southwest ridge, 1,700m, ED1, Scottish IV. Three bivouacs (June)
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/janhukot-prima-salita-nell-himalaya-indiano-da-parte-di-alpinisti-britannici

Garhwal, Changabang (6,864m)
Leo Billon – Sébastien Moatti – Sébastien Ratel (France)
North face (not to summit), 1996 to 1997 British link, 1,200m (40 pitches), AI5 M6. Two bivouacs (May).
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/changabang-parete-nord-in-stile-alpino-per-i-francesi-billon-moatti-e-ratel

PAKISTAN
Kachqiant (6,015m)

Danny Schoch – Bas Visscher (the Netherlands)
First ascent via northeast ridge, 1,000m, TD-, 60-70°. One bivouac (June/July).
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/kachqiant-pakistan-prima-salita-per-danny-schoch-e-bas-visscher

Nanga Parbat (8,125m)
Tomasz Mackiewicz (Poland) – Elisabeth Revol (France)
First complete ascent of the northwest (Diama) face (some new ground), ca 4,000m from base camp. Five bivouacs (January). Mackiewicz died on the descent.
– publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214680/Nanga-Parbat-Second-Winter-Ascent-First-Complete-Ascent-of-Northwest-Face-and-Rescue
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/sul-soccorso-al-nanga-parbat

Luphgar Sar West (7,157m)
Hansjörg Auer (Austria)
West face, ca 1,000m, M4 55°. Solo, in a day (July).
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/hansjorg-auer-i-primi-dettagli-della-solitaria-sul-lupghar-sar-west

Latok I (7,145m)
Ales Cesen – Luka Strazar (Slovenia) – Tom Livingstone (UK)
North ridge/face and south face, 2,400m ED+. Six bivouacs (August).
– www.planetmountain.com/it/notizie/interviste/latok-1-intervista-a-ales-cesen

Latok I (7,145m)
Sergey Glazunov – Alexander Gukov (Russia)
North ridge (not to summit, high point on meeting summit ridge), 2,300m. 10 bivouacs (July).
– mountain.ru/article/article_display1.php?article_id=8677
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/latok-1-il-report-di-alexander-gukov

Suma Brakk (6,166m)
Fabian Buhl – Alexander Huber (Germany)
South ridge, The Big Easy, 1,100m but 2,200m (56 pitches) of climbing, 5.10+ R A1 M6. Two bivouacs on final ascent, some rope fixed (August).
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/choktoi-ri-salita-di-fabian-buhl-alexander-huber-in-pakistan

Hainabrakk East Tower (5,650m)
Pete Fasoldt – Jonathan Schaffer (USA)
Southeast face, Heinous Broccoli Robbery, 1,100m, 5.11+ A1. Two bivouacs (summer).
No weblink currently (future AAJ)

Gasherbrum II (8,034m)
Felix Berg (Germany) – Adam Bielecki (Poland)
Southwest ridge and southwest face (partial new route), ca 700m from last camp on normal route. In a day (July).
– blogs.dw.com/adventuresports/summit-attempts-on-gasherbrum-iv-abandoned/

Changi II (6,250m)
Nelson Neirinck (Belgium) – Jess Roskelley – Kurt Ross (USA)
South face and west ridge, Hard Tellin’ not Knowin’, M6 AI4. One bivouac above high camp (August). Other routes in Lachit Valley.
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/due-nuove-vie-su-montagne-inviolate-nel-karakorum

NEPAL
Himjung (7,092m)

Vitus Auer – Sebastien Fuchs – Stefan Larcher (Austria)
West ridge and traverse of mountain, ca 2,200m from base camp, 55° UIAA III. One bivouac (October/November).
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/himjung-in-nepal-nuova-via-su-un-7000m-per-vitus-auer-sebastian-fuchs-stefan-larcher

Langdung (6,386m)
Jesus Ibarz – Edu Recio – Pablo Ruiz (Spain)
Southeast ridge, Bihana, 700m (but 1,500m of climbing), 6c+. In a day after fixing a small amount of rope (October).
– desnivel.com/expediciones/esteban-mena-roberto-jose-morales-y-nico-navarrete-abren-rdirecta-ecuatorianar-al-larkya-sur
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/langdung-nuova-via-nell-himalaya-nepalese

Drangnag Ri (6,757m)
Iñaki Arakistain – Alberto Fernández – Joseba Larrañaga -Mikel Zabalza (Spain)
Southwest ridge, Bizipenak, 1,500m, ED-, AI5 UIAA V. Two bivouacs (October).
– desnivel.com/expediciones/las-vivencias-en-el-drangnag-ri-de-mikel-zabalza-alberto-fernandez-joseba-larranaga-e-inaki-arakistain

Lunag Ri (6,895m)
David Lama (Austria)
First ascent via west ridge, 90°. Solo, two bivouacs (October).
rockandice.com/climbing-news/interview-david-lama-on-his-lunag-ri-solo
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/interviste/david-lama-lunag-ri

Kyajo Ri (6,151m)
Zdenek Hak – Marek Holecek (Czech Republic)
West face, north ridge, and northeast face, Lapse of Reason, 1,200m, ED+, M6 WI4+ UIAA III+. One bivouac on route (May).
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/kyajo-ri-in-nepal-nuova-via-per-marek-holecek-e-zdenek-hak

Pumori (7,161m)
Romeo Popa – Zsolt Torok – Teofil Vlad (Romania)
Southeast face, Le Voyage du Petit Prince, ca 1,400m, ED, M6 AI4 R. Five bivouacs (October), descent southwest ridge and west face.
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/pumori-parete-se-nuova-via-rumena-in-himalaya

Sharphu II (6,328m)
Spencer Gray – Aivaras Sajus (USA)
First ascent via east face, Samsara, 730m, ED2 AI5 M6. Two bivouacs (October), traversed the mountain.
– .planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/sharphu-ii-himalaya-salita-da-spencer-gray-aivaras-sajus

CHINA
Daxue Shan, Minya Konka (7,556m)

Li Zongli – Xiao Hai (China)
North spur and northeast ridge, 2,800m alpine style from base camp. Three bivouacs (October)
– asian-alpine-e-news.com/asian_alpine_e-new_issue_no43.pdf

KRYGZSTAN
Western Kokshaal-too, Kyzyl Asker (5,842m)

Evgeny Murin – Ilya Penyaev (Russia)
Southeast face, ca 1,150m (31 pitches), 6B/ED2 7a+ A2 M5. Seven bivouacs (July)
– risk.ru/blog/215659

Djangart Range, Pik Alexander (5,290m)
Line van den Berg – Wout Martens (Netherlands)
North face, Dutch Direct, 800m, TD+, 90°. Descended new route on south side of mountain. Other routes. One bivouac, (September).
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/kirghizistan-nuove-vie-olandesi-nelle-montagne-del-djangart

GEORGIA
Shkhara (5,203m)

Archil Badriashvili – Giorgi Tepnadze (Georgia)
New route and first winter ascent of south face, 2,500m (60+ pitches), ED2 M5 WI5 75-80°. Seven bivouacs (February).
– publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214600/Thirteen-Days-on-Shkhara-A-New-Route-and-First-Winter-Ascent-From-the-South
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/shkhara-parete-sud-nuova-via-e-prima-invernale-nel-caucaso-di-archil-badriashvili-e-giorgi-tepnadze

TAJIKISTAN
Korzhenevskaya (7,105m)

Roman Abildaev – Alexey Usatykh (both Russian) – Semen Dvornichenko – Sergey Seliverstov (both Kyrgyzstan)
South face, Ol’cha, ca 2,000m, 60-80°. Five bivouacs (January).
– publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214769/Pik-Korzhenevskaya-South-Face-Olcha

NORTH AMERICA
Montana
Cabinet Mountains, A Peak (2,632m)

Scott Coldiron – Jess Roskelley (USA)
Central Couloir, 800m, M7 AI5, and other routes. One bivouac (November).
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/jess-roskelley-scott-coldiron-salgono-central-couloir-a-peak-cabinet-mountains-usa

ALASKA
Revelation Mountains, Mt Jezebel northeast summit (2,880m)

Uisdean Hawthorn – Tom Livingstone (UK)
East face, Fun or Fear, 1,200m, M6+ AI6 R 90°. One bivouac (April)
– alpinist.com/doc/web18s/newswire-fun-or-fear-on-jezebel
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/alpinismo-in-alaska-nuova-via-britannica-sul-mt-jezebel-per-livingstone-e-hawthorn

Revelation Mountains, Hydra Peak (2,380m)
Thomas Auvaro – Jeremy Fino – Antoine Rolle (France)
Northeast face, Fa Pa Caou Per Aqui, 600m, ED, M8. In a day (April), and other routes.
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/alpinismo-in-alaska-nuove-vie-francesi-sulle-revelation-mountains

West Kahiltna Peak (3,912m)
Nik Mirhashemi – Kurt Ross (USA)
Southwest face, Ride the Bullet, 1,200m, AI5+ R M6+ C1. One bivouac (April).
– publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214817/West-Kahiltna-Peak-Southwest-Face-Ride-the-Bullet

Mendenhall Tower, Main tower (2,106m)
Marc André Leclerc (Canada) – Ryan Johnson (USA)
North face, 750m. One bivouac (March), both climbers died on the descent.
– publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214857/Mendenhall-Tower-North-Face
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/marc-andre-leclerc-e-ryan-johnson-ufficialmente-dati-ufficialmente-per-scomparsi-in-alaska

Devil’s Paw (2,616m)
Brette Harrington – Gabe Hayden (USA)
West face, Shaa Teix’i, 1,300m, 5.11a. In a day (September).
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/devils-paw-alaska-brette-harrington-gabe-hayden-salgono-parete-ovest

CANADA
Selkirk Mountains, Mt MacDonald (2,883m)

Chris Wright – Graham Zimmerman (USA)
North face, The Indirect American, 1,000m, WI4+ M7. Two bivouacs (November).
– planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/chris-wright-graham-zimmerman-add-the-indirect-american-mt-macdonald-canada

Rockies, Mt Temple (3,547m)
Alik Berg (Canada)
East-northeast face, The Milkwater, 1,250m, V WI4 M4. Solo, in a day (December).
– gripped.com/news/alik-berg-climbs-big-line-mount-temple/

Rockies, Mt Slesse (2,439m)
Marc Andre Leclerc (Canada) – Tom Livingstone (UK)
East face, Navigator Wall, first winter ascent, 700m, ED1 M7+ R (Scottish VIII/IX). In a day (January)
– alpinist.com/doc/web18w/newswire-navigator-wall-winter-ascent

Rockies, Mt Blane (2,993m)
Brette Harrington (USA) – Rose Pearson (NZ)
West face, Life Compass (a winter-conditions repeat of the 1957 Kahl-Schotten summer route), 980m, TD+, 5.10a, M4+ 80°. In a day (April).
– publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214833/Mt-Blane-West-Face-Life-Compass
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/brette-harrington-e-rose-pearson-aprono-life-compass-nuova-via-di-misto-in-canada

SOUTH AMERICA
ARGENTINA – CHILE

Torres del Paine, Cerro Almirante Nieto (2,440m)
Felipe Bishara – Christian Barra Munoz (Chile)
South-southeast face, Linea de Libertad, ca 700m, 75-90° ice, unstable snow. In a day (August).
– publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214927/Cerro-Almirante-Nieto-South-Face-Linea-de-Libertad
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/cerro-almirante-nieto-nuova-via-nei-torri-del-paine-patagonia

Southern Patagonia, Cerro Riso Patron Sur (2,350m)
Matteo della Bordella (Italy) – Silvan Schupbach (Switzerland)
First ascent, southwest face-King Kong, 900m, M7+ 90°. In a day (February).
– publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214754/Cerro-Riso-Patrn-Sur-Southwest-Face
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/matteo-della-bordella-e-king-kong-al-cerro-riso-patron-sud-in-patagonia

Cerro San Lorenzo, south pillar (El Faro, 3,150m)
Martin Elias (Spain) – Francois Poncet – Jerome Sullivan (both France)
La Milagrosa, 1,200m, 6a M7 A3. One bivouac (October)
– publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214925/Cerro-San-Lorenzo-South-Pillar-El-Faro
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/patagonia-el-faro-salita-martin-elias-francois-poncet-jerome-sullivan

Northern Patagonia, Punta Pantagruel (2,410m)
Felipe Cancino (Chile) – Max Fisher (Canada) – Willy Oppenheim (USA)
First ascent via east face, Brisa Suave, 350m, M6 C1 70°. In a day (September). In a day (February)
– publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214737/Northern-Patagonian-Icefield-Punta-Pantagruel-and-Cerro-Fantasma

BOLIVIA
Sajama (6,542m)

Robert Rauch (Bolivia/Germany)
Solo, in a day (August)
– publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214888/Sajama-West-Face-and-Northwest-Ridge-Days-to-Remember

Mururata (5,871m)
Ethan Berman – Brian Houle (USA)
Southwest face, Power to the Process, 750m, WI5 M5. In a day (July).
– publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214766/Cerro-Willa-Sallaloma-Southwest-Ridge-Cerro-Arkhata-Southeast-Face-The-Keep-Mururata-South-Face-Power-to-the-Process

PERU
Cordillera Vilcanota, Campa II (ca 5,650m)

Luis Crispin – Macario Crispin (Peru) – Duncan McDaniel (USA)
West face, 600m, AI3 M4 85°. In a day (August).
– publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214924/Jampa-II-West-Face

Cordillera Huayhuash, Jurau A (5,640m)
Jose Maria Andres – Samuel Gomez (Spain)
Northeast face, Chanchos y Chacras, not to summit, 1,000m, 6c M4+ 65°. In a day (September). Two bivouacs (June).
– publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214872/Jurau-A-and-Jurau-B-New-Routes-Not-To-Summits-Disambiguation-and-Notes-on-2018-Climbs

Cordillera Blanca, Nevado Huantsan (6,395m)
Devin Corboy (USA) – Macario Crispin (Peru) – Nathan Heald (USA) – Arttu Pylkkanen (Finland) – Javier Reyes (Chile) – Johannes Suikkanen (Finland)
South ridge – west summit to main summit, Apus Circus, 1,200m, ED, WI4 M5. One bivouac on final push (July). Several ropes placed on initial section
– publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214962/Nevado-Huantsn-South-Ridge-West-Summit-to-Main-Summit

AUSTRALASIA
NEW ZEALAND

Darran Mountains, Mt Suter (2,094m)
Ben Dare (NZ)
Click Here: Geelong Cats Guernsey South face, Elysium, 750m, AI5. Solo, in a day (July).
– alpineteam.co.nz/2018/new-route-%E2%80%93-south-face-mt-suter

Southern Alps, Mt Percy Smith (2,465m)
Ben Dare (NZ)
Southwest face, The Promise, 700m, WI4 M5+ A0. Solo, in a day (October).
– alpineteam.co.nz/2018/new-route-%E2%80%93-southwest-face-mt-percy-smith
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/ben-dare-apre-in-solitaria-una-nuova-via-sul-monte-percy-smith-in-nuova-zelanda

Southern Alps, Mt Cook (3,764m)
Caleb Jennings – Kim Ladiges (NZ)
South (Sheila) face, Pilgrim, 900m, WI5 M6. In a day (September)
– alpineteam.co.nz/2018/new-route-sheila-face-aoraki-mount-cook-route-beta
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/nuova-zelanda-ancora-una-nuova-via-sulla-sud-del-monte-cook

Southern Alps, Mt Cook (3,764m)
Rose Pearson-Sam Waetford (NZ)
South (Sheila) face, Ministry of Silly Walks, 800m, M4 WI4. In a day (September).
– alpineteam.co.nz/2018/second-new-route-sheila-face-aorakimount-cook

ANTARCTICA
Pirrit Hills, Mount Tidd (2,244m)
Antoine Bletton – Sébastien Moatti (France)
North face, Coming in from the Cold, 800m, TD, WI4 M4. In a day (January), and other routes by the GMHM expedition.
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/arrampicata-in-antartide-nuove-vie-francesi-nelle-selvagge-pirrit-hills

EUROPE
Norway

Senja, Breitinden (1,001m)
Greg Boswell (UK) – Jeff Mercier (France)
North face, 600m, ED; Finnkona, northwest face, 400m, M8 WI5+. Seven hard routes in eight days (February)
– ukclimbing.com/news/2018/02/senja_new_routing_spree_by_boswell_and_mercier-71491

Lofoten, Stortinden (866m)
Sami Modenius (Finland) – Chris Wright (USA)
North face, Way Out West, 800m, M7 A0 95°. One day (February).
No current link, future AAJ

Gudvangen Region, The Kraken
Phillipe Batoux – Aymeric Clouet – Michel Coranotte (France)
800m, VI/6+ M6. One day (February).
– pbatoux.wixsite.com/verticaladventure/single-post/2018/02/22/Big-ice-climbs-in-Norway

Alps
Mont Blanc (4,808m), Miage (northwest) face

Simon Richardson (UK) – Micha Rinn (Germany)
Perfect Storm, 700m, ED1, 6a+. One bivouac on pillar (August), traversed mountain.
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/tempesta-perfetta-nuova-via-sul-monte-bianco-per-simon-richardson-e-michael-rinn

Grandes Jorasses (4,208m), east face
Max Bonniot – Pierre Labbre – Manu Romain (France)
Groucho Marx FFA, 700m, ED+, 7b. In a day (June).
– maxbonniot.blogspot.com/2018/09/groucho-marx-en-libre-fe-des-grandes.html

Gross Grunhorn (4,044m)
Dani Arnold – Stephen Ruoss (Switzerland)
Northeast face, Exile on Main Street, 600m, M7 6b+ bolted belays. In a day (May).
– planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/grunhorn-direttissima-climbed-by-dani-arnold-and-stephan-ruoss-in-bernese-oberland

Cima Brenta, east face (3,150m)
Alessandro Beber – Matteo Faletti (Italy)
CRAM, 550m, 14 pitches, AI5 M6 90°. One bivouac (December).
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/cima-brenta-grande-nuova-via-invernale-per-alessandro-beber-matteo-faletti

Watzmann (2,713m)
Luka Lindic (Slovenia) – Ines Papert (Germany)
First winter east to west traverse, ca 3,450m of ascent, M5 80°. In a day – car to car (January)
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/watzmann-prima-traversata-invernale-per-ines-papert-e-luka-lindic

Sagwand (3,227m)
David Lama – Peter Muhlburger (Austria)
Sagzahn Verschneidung, 800m, M6 A2. In a day (February).
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/david-lama-completa-sagzahn-verschneidung-nel-valsertal-austria

***
Altre salite di rilievo durante il 2018 non perfettamente rispondenti ai rigorosi criteri

notable ascents during 2018 that do not quite fit the strict criteria
South America, South Avellano Tower (ca 1,900m)
John Crook – John McCune – Will Sim – Paul Swail (UK)
East face, 900m, E5 6a. One day in January, but after two days spent fixing rope to half height
– publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214756/Avellano-Towers-South-Avellano-Tower-East-Face
– planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/torres-del-avellano-big-new-climbs-in-chilean-patagonia

Greenland, Fox Jaw Cirque, Molar
Robert Jasper (Germany)
Southwest face – Stonecircle, 450m (12 pitches plus scrambling), 7c, , solo, with a little fixed rope and 30 bolts.
– publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214908/Molar-Southwest-Face-Stonecircle
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/robert-jasper-apre-in-solitaria-stonecircle-nuova-via-di-arrampicata-in-groenlandia

Dolomites, Cima Scotoni (2,874m)
Simon Gietl (Italy)
Can you hear me, 550m, 27 pitches, VIII+ A2. Rope solo, completed in June. No bolts but a total of eight days over two years.
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/cima-scotoni-dolomiti-simon-gietl-apre-una-nuova-via-in-solitaria

Dolomites, Cima Scotoni (2,874m)
Nicola Tondini, with Lorenzo d’Addario (Italy)
Southwest face, Non Abbiate paura di Sognare, 24 pitches, bolts used only on nine belays, first single push ascent, 8b, 7b+ obl. one bivouac (September).
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/cima-scotoni-dolomiti-nicola-tondini-prima-libera-single-push-di-non-abbiate-paura-di-sognare

Pakistan, Kiris Peak (5,428m)
Massimo Faletti – Maurizio Giordani (Italy)
Northeast face, Waterworld, 600m (1,250m of climbing; 29 pitches), UIAA VIII A2 M3 65°. With fixed ropes on lower wall and a little bolting.
– publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214938/Kiris-Peak-Northeast-Face-WaterWorld-Snow-Peak-West-Southwest-Face
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/pakistan-2018-il-kiris-peak-e-un-avventura-altri-tempi-di-maurizio-giordani

Pakistan, Pathan Peak (ca 6,000m)
Nicolas Favresse (Belgium )- Mathieu Maynadier (France) – Carlitos Molina (Argentina) – Jean-Louis Wertz (Belgium)
Pathan Pillar, 900m, 6b A1. Fixed rope and capsule style.
– planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/thagas-valley-il-report-finale-di-nicolas-favresse-della-spedizione-in-karakorum

Greenland, Mythics Cirque, Ataatap Tower (ca 1,350m)
Philippe Batoux – Lionel Daudet – Patrick Wagnon (France)
Northeast face, 1,000m, 7a A2. Capsule style.
– publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214964/Mythics-Cirque-Ataatap-Tower-Northeast-Face-Aurora-Tower-Southeast-Face-and-Northeast-Ridge

INFO: pioletsdor.net

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